CHEMIST: GENTLE AND HARSH CLEANSING INGREDIENT

Setelah tau cara kerja surfaktan, jiwa-jiwa serakah ku muncul.
Ingin tau jika SLS dikatakan mengiritasi, lalu ada gak sih cleansing ingredient yang tidak menimbulkan efek tersebut?
Ingat, surfaktan bukan hanya SLS doang ya.

Kita tau bahwa ada 4 tipe surfaktan (klasifikasi berdasarkan perbedaan kepolaran head segment).
  1. Anionic surfactant (Mengandung gugus fungsi anionic seperti sulfonate, phosphate, sulphate, carboxylate).
  2. Cationic surfactant (Muatan positif pada head segment).
  3. Zwitterionic / Amphoteric surfactant (Memiliki muatan positif dan negatif).
  4. Non-ionic surfactant (Umumnya polar namun tidak memiliki muatan).
Pada dasarnya, bagaimana kita mengenali which one more gentle berdasarkan ukuran dan struktur molekul surfaktan. Semakin compact, memungkinkan micelle yang terbentuk memiliki ukuran dan kapasitas yang besar. Semakin besar micelle, semakin banyak minyak yang dapat diangkat dari permukaan. Namun micelle dengan ukuran lebih kecil juga mempengaruhi tingkat penetrasi terhadap kulit yang memungkinkan terjadinya iritasi.

Perlu diketahui, bahwa banyaknya minyak yang dapat diangkat dari permukaan (wajah misalnya) tidak menjadikan surfaktan tersebut patut kita pilih sebagai best cleansing ingerdient. Perlu diingat juga, bahwa kinerja surfaktan dipengaruhi oleh pH, suhu, konsentrasi surfaktan dalam formula, penambahan pelembab dalam formula, dan konsentrasi bahan yang lain dalam formula.

Berikut kasaran penentuan cleansing ingredient

 Harsh Surfactant
1. Sodium laureth, myreth, lauryl sulfate
2. Sodium coco sulfate
3. Ammonium lauryl and laureth sulfate
4. Sodium C-14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
5. TEA Lauryl Sulfate
6. TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate
7. Sodium alkylbenzene Sulfonate
8. Sodim Alkylbenzene sulfonate
9. Ammonium / Sodium Xylenesulfonate.

Gentle Surfactant
1. Sodium Cocyl Isethionate
2. Cocamidopropyl Betaine
3. Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
4. Sodium Cocoyl (or lauryl/lauroyl) Sarcosinate
5. Ethyl PEG-15 Cocamine Sulfate
6. Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
7. Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate
8. Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
9. Sodium Methyl 2-sulfolaurate/ Disodium Sulfolaurate
10. Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate
11. Pluronic and Tetronic surfactants
12. Polyglucosides
13. Poly Decyl Glucoside Carboxylate

Untuk milih cleanser sendiri, ada beberapa tips nih. Karena sebagian cleanser menggunakan beberapa surfaktan, jadi pilihlah cleanser yang lebih mild/gentle. Perhatikan pula ingredient tambahan seperti hydrating ingredient (glycerin, oil, etc) yang berguna untuk meminimalisir efek iritasi.Jika kalian pikir,
"Gentle surfactant kurang nampol angkat kotoran", kalian bisa coba padukan mild cleanser dengan cleansing tools seperti koncaj sponge, clarisonic, dll

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (Amphoteric Surfactant)
PEG Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (Non-ionic Surfactant)

Decyl Glucoside (Non-ionic Surfactant)

Salah satu contoh cleansing product dengan mild surfactant yang bisa dicoba adalah Garnier Micellar Cleansing Water for Sensitive Skin (disodium cocoamphodiacetate) atau Simple Micellar Cleansing Water (PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides). Atau Sensatia Botanicals Unscented Soapless Facial Cleanser (Decyl Glucoside).


https://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/no-poo/curlchemist-what-makes-a-cleansing-ingredient-more-harsh-or-more-gentlehttps://chemistconfessions.com/pro-tips/cleanser-surfactants/


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